Video: Off-Season Projects – DIY Jet Ski Seat Re-Covering

When your jet ski is parked for the winter, you’ve basically got two choices: ignore it until spring… or use this downtime to knock out one of the most satisfying upgrades you can do yourself — re-covering the seat.

If you can wrap a present, its a pretty good bet you are also capable of this project and can roll into next season with a fresh-factory look – or custom flair.

While the World Cup is kicking off in Thailand, and a few brave winter diehards are still riding stateside, for most of us, this is perfect “project season.”  Two Ways to Re-Cover Your Jet Ski Seat

OPTION 1: PRE-MADE SEAT COVER (Most Popular, Cleanest Results)

For most riders, grabbing a pre-sewn cover is the easiest, best-looking path. These come patterned specifically for your make/model and include all the seams, panels, grip channels, and color layouts already stitched in.

Where to Source Pre-Made Covers

RIVA carries a wide range of premium jet ski seat covers, with lots of options for Yamaha, Sea-Doo, and Kawasaki models.

Greenhulk Performance offers a selection of RIVA and Jettrim covers — mostly RIVA (also a sponsor), with some Jettrim for those wanting that classic stitched-tight look.

Broward Motorsports stocks Jet Trim covers as well.

Other notable names include Hydro-Turf, BlackTip, and Watercraft Superstore.

Pre Made Cover:Pros
• Perfect fit
• Factory-level seam work
• Fastest install
• Tons of customization
• Great grip and comfort options

Pre Made Cover:Cons
• Slightly higher cost
• Less DIY freedom (you’re not choosing the raw materials)

Step-by-Step: Re-Covering Your Seat Using A Pre-Made Cover
1. Remove the Seat: Pop the seat off the ski and bring it into a warm, dry space.
(Bonus: great time to check your seat straps or grab handles — if yours are worn, Jet Tech carries upgraded replacements.)

2. Strip the Old Cover: Use pliers or a flathead to curl up the staples and pull them out. Expect to find:
• Rusty staples
• Crusted foam edges
• A surprising amount of sand

3. Inspect & Repair Foam: You don’t want to wrap new vinyl over damaged foam — it’ll show.
Look for:
• Waterlogged pockets
• Compressed “flat spots”
• Torn edges from hard riding or repeated impacts

4. Dry-Fit the New Cover:This step saves you from ugly wrinkles later.
Whether it’s a pre-made cover or DIY vinyl:
• Center it
• Check alignment
• Tug it into the natural curves

5. Start Stapling: Use stainless steel ¼”–3/8″ staples
• Begin at the nose, secure the rear, then pull tight along the sides.
• Work side-to-side, never front-to-back, to avoid seams wandering off-center.

6. Massage Out Wrinkles: A heat gun (or hair dryer on high) helps vinyl lay down beautifully. Just don’t overcook it — warm, not scorched.

7. Finish the Underside: Trim excess vinyl. Add extra staples in high-stretch areas. Check for clean curvature along the visible edges.

8. Reinstall

OPTION 2: RAW MARINE VINYL (Budget-Friendly + Full Custom Freedom)

Raw Vinyl Build: Pros
• Cheapest option
• Total creative control
• Great if you know upholstery basics

Raw Vinyl Build: Cons
• Can be frustrating for first-timers
• Requires pattern making
• More time-consuming

Most riders source their vinyl from typical marine supply shops/outfitters; Sailright is a popular source for PWC seat vinyl. They have even provided a handy walk-through video tutorial for replacing your seat cover from scratch.

DIY Full-Custom Vinyl Seat Cover Using Sailrite’s Allsport Vinyl

For those who want a fully customized approach, Sailrite makes it easy with their Allsport 4-way stretch vinyl, the same type used for professional PWC upholstery. This material stretches in every direction, letting you achieve a smooth, factory-like fit over your seat — even around curves and corners — without having to do complex foam shaping.

What You’ll Need

Materials

• Allsport 4-way stretch vinyl (Sailrite)

• V-92 Polyester UV-resistant thread

Tools

• Sewing machine (Sailrite 111 or home machine)

• Tape measure, marker, scissors

• Short-nose upholstery staple gun & stainless steel staples

• Screwdriver, needle-nose pliers

• HH-66 Vinyl Cement or compatible contact cement

• Pony clamps

(Full materials and tools list with Sailrite links available here)

Step-by-Step Overview

1. Assess Your Seat:
   Inspect your seat to determine if the vinyl is bonded to the foam. For seats where the old vinyl is glued in place, leave it intact and work your new vinyl over the top. For simpler seats, the old vinyl can be removed entirely.

2. Patterning Panels:
   For contoured seats, you’ll need to create panels that match the shape of the seat. Lay the vinyl wrong side up, mark valleys and peaks, then cut mirrored panels for both sides. Sailrite’s Allsport vinyl is forgiving, so seam allowances are minimal.

3. Sewing the Panels:

   • Match the edges of each panel with outside surfaces facing each other.

   • Sew with a 4mm straight stitch, creating a semi-flat felled seam.

   • Use a top stitch at 6mm to finish. Keep seams tight and flat, pulling gently to avoid stretching the vinyl out of shape.

   • Sailrite recommends V-92 UV thread for durability in the sun and water.

4. Preparing the Seat:
   Remove any corner protectors and staples from the old cover. Protect sharp edges with scrap vinyl if needed to prevent cutting your new fabric.

5. Installing the New Cover:

   • Stretch the vinyl over the seat, using helpers or pony clamps to hold it in place.

   • Staple the edges to the underside of the seat, leaving small relief slits for curves and corners as needed.

   • Trim excess vinyl gradually while securing to avoid bulk.

   • Reinstall end caps and corner protectors with HH-66 Vinyl Cement.

6. Finishing Touches:

   • Smooth out small wrinkles along edges; pleats in hidden areas are fine.

   • Check staples for security and add more if needed.

   • The forward seat and any handlebar pads can be recovered using the same process.

Sailrite’s video breaks down every step with time-stamped guidance, so even first-time DIYers can confidently recover their PWC seats with a professional-looking finish. With a little patience, your seat will look factory-new and ready for the next season.

How to Repair Jet Ski Seat Foam

Jet ski seats see way more moisture than motorcycle seats, which means you’ll often discover:
• Damp or soggy foam
• Mold spots
• Hidden cracks
• Foam that has hardened from repeated water intrusion

To Repair Waterlogged Foam:
• Squeeze-test: If water drips or the foam feels heavy, it’s soaked.
• Air dry: Place the foam in a warm, ventilated space for 24–48 hours.
• Spot replace: Cut out damaged areas with a serrated knife.
• Patch: Use marine foam or high-density upholstery foam from a craft store.
• Shape: Electric carving knives work surprisingly well for contouring.
• Seal edges (optional): A thin mist of contact glue keeps the foam from fraying.
• If the foam smells awful or is visibly blackened, replacement is the smarter long-term call.

Whether you grab a ready-to-go cover from RIVA, Greenhulk, or Broward Motorsports, or go full custom with marine vinyl, you’ll end up with a cleaner, better-looking ride — and a seat that’s ready for another season of throttle therapy.