There is hardly a single day that goes by that The Watercraft Journal’s Google Notifications – keyed to alert me to all things PWC – does not list at least one (and often multiple) mention of “Aquatic Invasive Species” or AIS, and the related dangers specifically posed by personal watercraft vessels – and how those in the PWC community can help stem the tide of the seeming invasion of more and more destructive non-native plants, animals, algae, and microorganisms introduced into ecosystems outside their natural range, posing a threat to the environment, economy, society, and human health.

According to a multitude of official sources, invasive aquatics cause negative environmental, economic and social outcomes by outcompeting native species, disrupting ecosystems, altering natural ecological processes, increase the costs associated with control and management of the species, damaging fishing and tourism industries, and posing a risk to human health through reduction in water quality.

While not all states are at risk for the same type of AIS, Zebra and quagga mussels, New Zealand mudsnails or aquatic vegetation such as curly pondweed are most often mentioned, and most recently, alerts have been rolling in about warnings of “whirling disease” – a condition affecting trout and salmon caused by an invasive, microscopic parasite known as Myxobolus cerebralis. The parasite attacks the cartilage tissue of a fish’s head and spine.

According to the National Invasive Species Information Center (NISIC) – an arm of the US Department of Agriculture – nearly every state in the country has adopted regulations addressing aquatic invasive species (AIS), with many implementing mandatory watercraft inspections and mandated deconatimination processes for all watercraft, including jet skis.

A Minnesota Department of Natural Resources Public Service Announcement from 2012 shows that AIS concerns are nothing new, but research shows that the concerns have become more high-profile in recent years – as have the regulations and restriction – with some public bodies of water even closing to boat use of any type to reduce the risk of AIS transfer.

As noted in this quick video tutorial from the Royal Yachting Association specifically addressing ways Personal Watercraft owners can avoid transfer of AIS, the process is fairly simple and straightforward.

The Clean, Drain, Dry protocol, in short, involves washing plants and animals from your PWC, draining any water from the PWC, and allowing it to dry completely before introducing it to another body of water.

More detailed instructions are provided by the National Park Service:

Clean: Remove all visible plants, animals, and mud from your boat, trailer, and other equipment.

Drain: Ensure your boat is completely drained, including emptying the bilge, live wells, and ballast tanks.

Dry: Allow your boat and equipment to completely dry, preferably in full sun, for at least five days, or longer in moist coastal areas.

It is also recommended that the drain plug must always remain out during transport.

Consider Decontamination: For known or suspected infested waters, many states recommend or require following a more rigorous decontamination for boats, footwear, gear and trailers, such as those recommended by states such as New York and Washington.

Drying method: Once gear is fully dry, allow it to remain dry for an additional 48 hours before using again.

Hot water: Hard non-porous surfaces, such as trailers, engines, and shovels, require 15 seconds of constant exposure to hot water (minimum 140 degrees) by soaking or using a hot-water pressure washer. Porous materials and gear with multiple folds or cavities — such as boots, waders, or nets –require at least 5 minutes of constant exposure to water heated to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. (This method is not recommended for gear made of Gore-tex.)

Freeze: Freeze your gear for at least 8 hours at 14 degrees Fahrenheit, or for at least 24 hours at 15-32 degrees Fahrenheit.

Chemical method: Chemical treatments should not be done near a waterbody. Soak gear in undiluted antibacterial Formula 409 for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly in a contained area. Rinse water must be disposed of down a sewage drain, not a storm drain.

While it may seem overkill, not only does complying with the regulations and recommendations of each state where you operate a PWC help alleviate the risk posed by AISs, but it helps eliminate your risk of stiff penalties for noncompliance, with many states having laws on the books similar to Washington Sate’s:

Penalties for introducing aquatic invasive species
It is against the law (RCW 77.135.040) to possess, transport or traffic prohibited invasive species or to release non-native species into state waters through intentional or unintentional means. This includes animals and plants hitchhiking on boats or field gear; aquarium or terrarium pets or plants; animals or plants used in research or education; unused live fishing bait; or live seafood purchased from a store.

It is illegal to transport aquatic invasive species from one waterbody to another in the state of Washington. Violators face a maximum penalty of one year in jail and $5,000 in fines.

Under Washington state regulations (WAC 220-640-120), prohibited species may be immediately killed and retained only if the person is certain about species identification and assumes responsibility for correct identification and adherence to state rules and fishing regulations.

To mod, or not to mod – that is rarely the question – or so says a vocal sector of the PWC lifestyle family, who leave little doubt that, to them at least, modding is a must.

And in all actuality, there is much to be said for taking the steps necessary to improve your ride. Quality mods can improve handling, acceleration, speed, stability and more, not to mention adding a level of customization that ties your PWC’s behaviors to your preferences, skill level and riding style – all of which multiply the level of enjoyment available from your ski. 

As Reddit reader jakgal04 wrote in a thread on the advisabiltly of adding mods, “I’ve always modified mine. Granted I tend to lightly modify (impeller, intake, exhaust, tune) for the sake of reliability, but mods are fun and the whole point of owning and riding a PWC is to have fun. Right now I have a 2024 RXT-X 325 with a Riva unlocked ECU, 8500 RPM tune, impeller, intake, catch can, exhaust, BOV with tubing and a few freebie mods like grinded iBR stops and a sanded ride plate so I’m averaging 85 mph, which is perfect.”

As pointed out in that comment, mods can come in a number of levels, from mild tweaks to aggressive alterations, and are available for the full range of PWC systems – engine, handling, accessories, etc.

Performance-connected mods include fuel tuners, ECU flashing, upgrading intake grates and exhaust systems can improve airflow and power, while replacing the impeller with a more aggressive one can increase acceleration and top speed. In the realm of handling, upgrades to ride plates and sponsons can improve traction and handling, while hull modifications can provide stabilization as well as reduce drag. And at the opposite end of the spectrum from engine modifications, are mods such as upgraded speakers, heated grips and other add-ons. 

As another Reddit reader, bmxguy08, commented, “Life’s too short to ride/drive stock things. Everything I own but the wife’s car is modified. Even that has drilled and slotted rotors and power stop pads but I don’t consider that modified just upgraded. I just got a 300 ultra lx 2 weeks ago and it’s already got a RIVA SCOM, RIVA water box, RIVA exhaust pipe, RIVA air intake, waste gate block off, KSpeed trumpet, Solas impeller, RIVA sponsons, and I got a KSpeed intake grate on order. At the end of the season I will send the ECM off to KSpeed for a tune.”

That being said, the feedback on modding a PWC is not 100% positive – there are, at least every once in a while – words of caution thrown in the mix – things like the high cost, increased maintenance budgets/schedules, increase risks for mechanical issues – and one of the most often mentioned cautions against modding a ski is the risk of voiding the warranty – a noteworthy concern considering the price of a news ski, and the cost of repairs.

However, a recent release from GreenHulk PWC Performance Parts Store, entitled “Modding Your Ski? Here’s the Truth About Warranty & the Law,” cautions against lending full credence to that concern. 

According to GreenHulk, this consequence for adding aftermarket modifications is not as automatic as some may assume. 

“Many riders are hesitant to install even minor upgrades like an intake grate or an air intake kit because a dealer told them it would void their entire warranty. But thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, you are protected from unfair warranty denial,” GreenHulk advises.

Under the Act, in order to legally deny a warranty claim, a dealer must prove that a modification directly caused the failure, and the mod is directly related to the failure. Additionally, a warranty cannot prohibit the owner from working on the vehicle, nor can the dealer demand that only work completed at the dealership is covered under the warranty. 

More details are available in a video from Rich with K&N:

You can read the full release below:

One of the biggest misconceptions in the PWC world is that installing aftermarket modifications will automatically void your ski’s warranty. This is simply NOT true.

Many riders are hesitant to install even minor upgrades like an intake grate or an air intake kit because a dealer told them it would void their entire warranty. But thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, you’re protected from unfair warranty denial.

• What You Need to Know About Mods & Warranty Coverage
  Your warranty is NOT voided just because you install aftermarket parts.
• Dealers must prove that a modification directly caused the failure to deny a warranty claim.
• You are legally allowed to perform your own maintenance. Your dealer CANNOT force you to bring your ski to them for maintenance work to keep your warranty valid.
• If a failure is unrelated to your modifications, it must still be covered.
  • Example: You install an air intake kit and your instrument cluster fails—your dealer must still honor the warranty for the cluster because the intake has nothing to do with the failure.
  • Example: You install multiple performance mods and tune the ECU. Later, you run bad fuel and blow your motor—your dealer can deny the warranty for the engine, but your warranty on other components like steering, trim, and sensors remains intact.

Straight from the Experts
I consulted Brian from RIVA, and he confirmed: “Warranty should only be denied if the modification caused the failure. Any failures caused by defects in the original parts or manufacture are still warrantable under the express terms of the OEM manufacturer’s warranty.”

This means your dealer cannot legally deny unrelated warranty claims just because you installed an aftermarket part.

Know Your Rights!
There’s plenty of great information about the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, and I encourage you to research it yourself. Here’s a great video featuring Rich from K&N, explaining how this law protects consumers just like you.

If you’ve been holding off on modifying your ski, now you can upgrade with confidence knowing that your warranty is protected under federal law.

The Watercraft Journal frequently talks about the top-of-the-line performance parts, accessories and upgrades available from RIVA Racing, and on a rare (and lucky) occasion, WCJ promotes RIVA’s special projects, such as the Limited Edition Yamaha FX350R & GP350R. And as popular as that WCJ content always is, it’s easy to sometimes forget the flip side – great deals on new and used PWC models at RIVA Motorsports.

Just days ago, RIVA announced some great deals at the Deerfield Beach store on a slew of pre-owned jet skis, with models to suit every style, and every budget. 

Out of the 34 deals available, many are currently priced to sell, with savings ranging from hundreds of dollars to thousands in savings. Prices range from a low of $5,690 for a  2017 Yamaha EX Sport to $16,990 for a 2024 Yamaha FX® Limited SVHO® with Audio System (not including a few hull-only models running at $3,000.

At a savings of nearly $3,500, RIVA has a 2020 Yamaha FX Cruiser SVHO for $8,990. The well-maintained  silver SVHO Cruiser has 362 hours and was just serviced and watertested by RIVA factory trained technicians. The model features a supercharged 4-cylinder, 4-stroke, Super Vortex High Output Yamaha Marine Engine. Other model highlights include Drive Control for customizing your ride, providing all vital display functions, and security mode to prevent unauthorized use.

Also available with more than $3,000 slashed from the price is a 2021 Sea-Doo GTX Limited 300 for $9,899. This model features the largest swim platform in the industry and a removable seat, as well as a Bluetooth Audio System, as well as true worry-free operation with the iDF Debris Free Pump System.

Available with a $2,500 markdown, this 2017 Sea-Doo GTI™ SE 155 is now listed at $5,990 – a steal considering model features such as a Touring Seat, Reboarding Ladder and Variable Trim System (VTS). The Rotax® 1503 NA 4-TEC® 1,494 cc Naturally aspirated 3-seater is stunning with its bold Deep Black, White and Sunrise Orange livery. 

With savings just topping the $2,000 mark, this Torch Red Metallic with White 2019 Yamaha VXR is now priced at $9,900 and boasts a 1812CC, 4-cylinder, 4-stroke, 1.8 Liter High Output Yamaha Marine Engine, while model features include Electric Trim System, Racing-inspired 2-piece seat, and RiDE® with Traction Control. 

Be sure to check out the RIVA Motorsports of Deefield Beach website for all the deals on pre-owned PWCs.

No matter how many PWC adventures you’ve been on, no matter how much of a misbehaving donkey (c’mon, you can figure it out!) you are, safety always needs to be a consideration when you hit the water on a jet ski. This goes double for solo rides, and quadruple for offshore rides – we’ll leave the math to you for rides that are both solo and offshore.

With weather warming up, and the call of open water making itself known, The Watercraft Journal wanted to check with a few of those “in the know” to find out what they consider must-haves to take along with you on an offshore adventure – whether you’re fishing, headed to a destination, or just cruising around, here are some top-rated products to keep you safe and take some of the potency out of Murphy’s Law.

Bri Andrassi, a Sea-Doo ambassador who is a Doctor of Nursing, teaching undergraduate nursing students in her professional life, is also a fishing enthusiast and PWC angler.

While keeping track of Andrassi (and sometimes @sancheztheracoon) through her BA_Fishing social media accounts and YouTube Channel is always entertaining and fun, she also shares more technical information and safety tips – such as her post just days ago highlighting the items she considers non-negotiable when venturing offshore on a solo trip – a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB), a VHF/Marine Radio, a Personal Floatation Device (PFD), a Virtual Distress Signal, an Emergency Life Vessel, and sun protection.

PERSONAL LOCATOR BEACON
Kirk Davis, also a well-known and avid PWC angler, also lists a PLB as one of his top three emergency communication options. In an article on The Fishing Website, Davis noted that a PLB is “an emergency devices similar in size to a cell phone, that you can activate in an emergency when all other avenues have been exhausted. They come in different forms, but you should look for one that is fully waterproof, including the aerial, and has GPS capacity. This will mean that when you activate it, your GPS will be sent to a rescue centre and they will be able to pinpoint your location and get help on the way.”

He added, “I always wear my PLB attached to me at all times. This device is my ultimate backstop – it’s like always having another boat alongside, and I trust it with my life.” He did note that using a PLB should always be a last-choice option, stating, “The PLB is an on or off device. Once it’s on, you don’t have the opportunity to provide the person getting the message on the other end any information around the urgency of your situation, so they are assuming it is life-threatening and will task any of the services – including helicopters if necessary – to rescue you.”

VFH RADIO
Bob Broeking is another familiar name to some WCJ readers, having been featured in previous articles. While not an avid PWC fisher like Davis and Andrassi, Broeking is, nonetheless, often out on solo adventures on his PWC, and, like Andrassi, strongly recommends always carrying a VHF/Marine Radio for safety reasons, convenience, weather monitoring and communications.

In a 2023 post to his YouTube Channel, Broeking details the abilities and importance of keeping a VHF or Marine Radio with you on the water, as well as giving recommendations on models, and a brief overview on how to use a Marine Radio.

PERSONAL FLOATATION DEVICE (With lanyard attached)
According to Sea-Doo, The type of Sea-Doo product you have and how you ride your Sea-Doo has a lot to say about the style of personal flotation device that might suit your needs. A high-octane performance PWC rider might choose a style that maximizes airflow, while a long-distance adventure rider or fishing enthusiast might want something with a bit more storage. The family that’s wakeboarding and tubing around the lake may want something that adjusts for multiple sizes and offers great freedom of movement. Visit the Sea-Doo Owner Zone to see complete information about choosing the right PFD, tips on proper usage, and more information

VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNAL
According to US Coast Guard documentation, a Visual Distress Signal (VDS) is a crucial piece of boating safety equipment that allows your vessel to be located swiftly during emergencies. If used correctly, visual distress signals make it possible to respond quickly to situations that could otherwise lead to tragic results.
VDS signals include:
*Day signals that are visible in sunlight
*Night signals that are visible in the dark
*Signals that can be used both during the day and at night.

Boating visual distress signals can be either pyrotechnic (using smoke and flame), or non-pyrotechnic (non-combustible). There are many types of signals that meet with federal boating regulations.
More information about Virtual Distress Signals, Coast Guard Guidelines and regulations, specifications and more, can be found at the BoatUS Foundation website.

EMERGENCY LIFE VESSEL
Inflatable emergency vessels or rafts provide another layer of protection for worst-case-scenarios, while remaining small and light enough to not have a negative impact on the adventure. Many styles and price ranges are available, like Uncharted Supply’s development of, arguably, the lightest, most packable raft ever. The Rapid Raft V2 can be inflated or deflated in under 30 seconds, weighs under 4 pounds and can carry up to 400 pounds of people and gear

PROTECTIVE SUN GEAR
Prolonged sun exposure can lead to sunburn, skin damage, and eye strain, in addition to overheating and dehydration.

Andressi recommends to always wear protection from the sun, including sunglasses, a hat, and sunscreen such as zinc. She also recommends to always wear a shirt with a hood, which not only helps protect the top of the head, but the sensitive back-of-the-neck area.

WHISTLE
While a whistle may not seem like a very effective safety item for PWC use, according to Sea-Doo documentation, “a noise signal of some kind is legally required on all motorized watercraft. If you’re ever stranded on the water and need to signal for help, you’ll quickly understand why. Typically, this is either a whistle or small air horn; either will meet the requirement.

A whistle can be stored in a glovebox or even on your personal flotation device for instant access. An air horn is not always as easily accessible, but it’s usually more easily heard by passersby over the sound of an engine.”

Like an old fashioned round of Eenie Meenie Miney Mo — or Eenie Meenie Miney Go, as this case might be – it is sometimes difficult to decide which model PWC is the right one for your riding style, skill level, interests and budget.

And Yamaha did not make that choice any easier with their release of the 2025 JetBlaster Series.

As noted about Yamaha’s Rec Line entry in The Watercraft Journal’s August 2024 reveal of the 2025 Yamaha Waverunner Lineup:

“Gone is Yamaha’s former response to Sea-Doo’s industry-breaking Spark and Spark Trixx: the EX series. In its place is a wholly redesigned, dual-material entry level runabout that is both shorter (116-inches), lighter (538-to-600 pounds) and slightly wider (45-inches).

“Rechristened the JetBlaster, each of the six available models come with a polypropylene top deck featuring an all-too-familiar-looking open wishbone concept atop either a SMC or NanoXcel hull.

Equally, two models are available with a 2-up or 3-up bench (the 3-up models include rear view mirrors as well). Finally, two variants of the TR-1 engine are available: the 90-horsepower TR-1 and the 110-horsepower TR-1 High Output.

“Each ‘Blaster comes with a 13.2-gallon fuel cell, and an all-new 144mm jet pump. (An increased 25.5º of trim angle and new impeller are exclusive to the Pro and LTD models.) Priced for budget appeal, the base Jet Blaster comes in at $7,999 with the SMC hull and 90HP TR-1.

Weirdly, the Jet Blaster DLX 2-up ($8,999) and DLX 3-up ($9,999) differ in price by $1,000, while the Jet Blaster Pro 2-up ($11,199) and Jet Blaster Pro 3-up ($11,799) differ by $600 despite sharing the same add-ons for the added rider.”

CycleSprings PowerSports was quick to see the potential of the JetBlaster Series, and WCJ noted their hype for the lineup in an August article quoting Cycle Springs’ declaration that “The design of the 2025 line is exceedingly sleek, with a glossy, “straight-off-the-lot” finish and a reinforced polypropylene deck that work together to provide a durable, great-looking watercraft.”

In February, with the opening of the 2025 Boat Show season with the annual powerhouse Miami Boat Show, the dominance of the Yamaha JetBlaster Series was officially stamped when the National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA) and Boating Writers International (BWI) awarded the Jet Blaster Series the The Innovation Award for the Personal Watercraft division, highlighting the the Jet Blaster model series’ “cutting edge” three-piece deck design and top-of-the-line performance.

Sometimes, after the first blush of newness wears off, new powersports models lose a bit of their luster, but that doesn’t seem to be the case with this year’s JetBlaster Series, and any perusal of popular forums and YouTube channels will result in a plethora of positive reviews, ride recaps and walkarounds.

Recognizing this continued interest and the popularity of this Rec Lite line, CycleSprings recently posted to their social media channel, giving the following guide to picking the right 2025 JetBlaster to suit you:

Looking for the most fun, freestyle-inspired personal watercraft on the water? The Yamaha JetBlaster series is built for riders who crave agility, power, and excitement! Whether you’re looking for a 2-up trick machine or a 3-up ride for the whole crew, there’s a JetBlaster for you.

Which JetBlaster is right for you?

• JetBlaster – The classic 2-up ride for pure fun and agility.
  JetBlaster DLX 2-Up – More comfort & style for an enhanced experience.
• JetBlaster DLX 3-Up – Extra room for a friend and Yamaha’s RiDE® system for better control.
• JetBlaster PRO 2-Up – Designed for freestyle action & ultimate maneuverability.
• JetBlaster PRO 3-Up – Performance meets versatility for high-energy rides.
• JetBlaster LTD – The ultimate JetBlaster experience, fully loaded with premium features.

With a lightweight design, class-leading engine power, and freestyle handlebars, the JetBlaster is made for thrill-seekers who want to push their ride to the limit.

Spring fever is gonna getcha – just like with bikers, the first warm and sunny days of spring – even when you know it’s a false spring, with several weeks of pending chill left in the forecast – bring PWC riders out from hibernation. Ski covers come off, spring maintenance checklists come out, and people begin planning for that first ride of the season.

Springtime is also rife with new PWC owners ready to take their first ride ever, trailering their shiny, brand-spanking new PWC to the lakeshore or beach to launch a summer of fun and excitement.

Given the predominance of “firsts” in that springtime litany, The Watercraft Journal thought it was a good time for a “what to do in case of” refresher from the vault.

Looking back at an article by Jeff Hemmel on PersonalWatercraft.com, both new riders, and experienced riders coming off the winter hiatus, can benefit from Hemmel’s review of how to correctly handle three of the most common riding errors – porpoising, spinning out and sitting in rough water.

Porpoising
Porpoising is the up-and-down, leaping and surging effect that can make your ski seem like it’s more of a bucking bronco than a smooth, sleek watercraft. Porpoising tends to occur during hard “start-line” style accelerations on today’s high-powered models, as the sheer power causes the craft to leap out of the water at the hit of the throttle.

Porpoising is a simple issue to correct. The most common mistake that causes porpoising is that the rider’s weight is too far back on the ski, causing too much bow-rise.

Most of the time, just moving forward on the ski will make it settle down and stay planted. If you are getting ready to pin the throttle from a dead stop, move your feet farther to the rear of the ski and shift your weight towards the bow.

If your watercraft is equipped with trim, set the trim all the way down and begin to trim up once you get the speed up if you are doing a speed run. In a closed course race environment, you may want to leave the trim all the way down the entire race so you have a more aggressive bite through the turns.

Spinning Out
The next handling error is spinning or sliding out. This is a problem that can be quite scary and possibly throw you off, but most of the time, it can be avoided completely by using correct handling techniques.

This is an issue that is not near as common as it used to be with older skis, but it still happens from time to time. In the early days of sit-downs, you used to have to actually lean to the outside to avoid breaking loose and sliding uncontrollably. Your instinct tells you to lean into a turn, right? If you are on an older watercraft, you may be in trouble if you follow your instincts. Thankfully, today’s models reward the inside lean, but they can still spin out on occasion.

When you lose control of a PWC, it can be very frightening. With an adjustment to your riding style, though, you can avoid the problem in many cases. Foot placement is an easy solution to this issue. Keep your inside foot(the foot on the inside of the turn) planted firmly towards the front of the footwell, and put your outside foot farther towards the rear of the ski. This will both keep the stern planted in the water as well as give you the leverage needed to power through the turn. Setting the trim all the way down will also help keep more of the hull in the water, which will also keep the ski planted in the water.

Sitting in Rough Water
Even the best rough water hulls on the market can get uncomfortable and bouncy in choppy conditions. Sitting down may seem like the easiest and most comfortable way to ride in this water, when in fact it is not. Standing will allow your legs to act as “shock absorbers” and absorb a lot of the impact. When you are sitting, your spine is absorbing most of the impact, which can really make for an uncomfortable and grueling ride. Standing will also allow you to get a better view of the water ahead.