For years Hydro-Turf has been providing the public with quality traction mats and upholstery. These are a necessity for any riders as having a good traction mat can be the one thing that stands in your way of making that jump or getting the inside lane on the turn. But as with any part or accessories it all costs money. Many riders have visions for their watercraft but do not have the means, so why not get a sponsor to help you out!
Recently, Hydro-Turf announced that they are look to sponsor riders for 2020. This could be your time to send in your information and let this company who has helped grow our personal watercraft community promote you. Hyrdo-Turf is known globally as the one of the leaders in the traction mat industry.
So, you are probably wondering how you sign up. It’s super easy and they’re looking to support most all forms of racing and/or competition. They want to hear what you are all about and help achieve your goals for this year.
Once you are on that page, copy the information into your email and fill it out. Once it is all filled out, email [email protected]
Make sure when answering the questions to elaborate on all of your abilities to best represent yourself.
Remember that this is a limited opportunity so don’t wait! Fill out the form and you could be the next rider to support this awesome company. Plus if you are currently a sponsored Hydro-Turf rider and would like to renew your membership they would love to hear from you and your upcoming plans and goals.
One of the biggest changes to the SVHO-powered Yamaha WaveRunners for 2020 was almost completely ignored by most media outlets and dealers (but of course, not us at The WatercraftJournal). Not only had Yamaha re-engineered its high performance jet pump so that the wear ring and pump were incorporated into one housing, but replaced the permanent wear ring with a replaceable stainless insert…and increased the overall size to a 160mm from beginning to end.
Previously, the Yamaha SVHO used a 155mm stator and a 160mm impeller and liner. Not only does this redesign reduce the number of parts, but also permits for extended use and longevity – a particular plus for the performance-oriented SVHO owner. And while this is definitely a step in the right direction for the stock-level guys, those looking to really step up their horsepower game still need some aftermarket support.
Thankfully, RIVA Racing has just announced that their RIVA Yamaha 160mm Stainless Steel Wear Ring ($499.95) and RIVA Yamaha 160mm Stainless Steel Race Pump ($999.95) are now applicable as direct replacements for all 2020 model year SVHO-equipped WaveRunners. The two-part pump will directly replace the one-piece OEM pump, and provide increased acceleration and top speed as well as reduced cavitation. The duo create a precision piece of equipment far more efficient, and much stronger and corrosion-resistant than the OEM parts.
Hey everyone! Kevin Shaw, Editor-in-Chief of The Watercraft Journal here. If you haven’t already seen, our Facebook page has been a little quiet these last few days. In today’s modern world of publishing, social media (primarily Facebook, and in a lesser extent Instagram and Twitter) has become the digital equivalent of the newsrack.
Once where people ventured to the magazine rack to see what was new, today’s Facebook feeds deliver the latest news directly to the customer. It’s pretty convenient when it works; but when it doesn’t, things can get real messy very quick.
Last week, we encountered some technical issues that made it necessary to pause publishing on The Watercraft Journal’s Facebook page for a few days. Thankfully, we’re working closely with account managers at Facebook to resolve these issues, and provide our readers and followers a superior experience when we come back online.
Once reactivated, The Watercraft Journal’s Facebook page will provide greater reach to all of our followers, more consistent alerts when new articles and/or videos are published, and simply more fun-on-the-water to enjoy!
Many of you are familiar with the name RIVA Racing. They are one of the leaders in the PWC performance parts market. Having started as a small mom and pop powersports shop, they now have six different locations in Florida with over 100 employees. While it can be easy to grow too quickly and underperform, RIVA Racing has done the opposite. They have been able to come out with some of the best products for Sea-Doo, Yamaha and Kawasaki PWC’s. You might ask how they have been able to continue to produce some of the best quality parts. The answer is, their Research and Development Facility.
In a recent video RIVA Racing posted on their YouTube channel, they give you an inside look at their Research and Development Facility. The first thing you may notice is how clean it is. Cleanliness is crucial when working with performance parts and engines. Along with being clean, everything is organized accordingly. They have all their tools where they should be, have clean PWC’s and handle them with care.
In the video, they also give you a look at their high-tech engine dyno room where they can test different tunes along with parts. All of these things are the perfect ingredients for making some of the best performance parts on the market. They spare no expense in ensuring their products as they maintain a very respect reputation in the PWC market.
No matter what you ride whether it be a Kawasaki, Sea-Doo or Yamaha, RIVA Racing has performance parts for you. Their website is easy to use and allows you to narrow your search to your exact model of PWC. So if you are in the need of high quality parts or looking to go faster than your buddy, check out RIVA Racing today. Be sure to check out their other YouTube videos as well.
The P1 AquaX is celebrating its tenth anniversary and the international racing promoter has added to the celebration with the announcement of a race series that includes the United States, mainland Europe, and the United Kingdom. This series will run from April to October. The season finale will again be the AquaX Bahamas World Championship in November.
Daytona Beach again kicks off the season with more than one hundred Pro Enduro, Am Enduro, and Sprint riders expected to hit the surf that’s on offer. This is the seventh season of the AquaX race taking place in Daytona Beach and the Hard Rock will again be the host hotel for the racers. The event will run April 18th-19th.
May 2cd, the Amateur racers will make the journey to Lake Dora in Tavares, located in Central Florida just 40 miles northwest of Orlando. May 15th-17th, the AquaX riders will participate in the Thunder on Cocoa Beach offshore racing on the Space Coast for the first time. This event should be fun!
Racers will head to Florida’s Gulf Coast to race in St. Petersburg Beach from June12th-13th for the fourth time. Once again, this round will be sponsored Visit St. Pete/Clearwater with the Don CeSar hosting the riders.
The Pro series will travel to Indiana at the end of July where Michigan City will host an AquaX event for the second time on the southern shore of the lake. The dates for this event are July 31st-August 2cd.
Capping off the season in November is the P1 AquaX Bahamas World Championship at the Atlantis resort in Nassau. That event is packed cream of the crop which, consists of a huge field of professional riders from all over the world. The dates for this event are November 13th-15th. The elite class of riders will battle it out for titles in the sprint and endurance fields.
P1 AquaX is sure to be an epic season with the addition of the U.S., mainland Europe, and the U.K. from April to October. Fans are going to enjoy AquaX more than they already do!
People love when things are clean because it is a way of showing ourselves and others that we care about our things. Whether it be our house, our garage, our cars or PWC’s. No matter what PWC you have, cleaning it with good, quality products is a great way to ensure yours does not age quickly. With so many cleaning products on the market, how do you know which one to choose?
Well if you are debating switching brands or need a new brand, JetX Powersports recommends trying XPS Cleaning and Care Products. These products are affordable but leave a lasting impression. For example, for a half-gallon of wash and wax, it only costs $17.99. While this is a very competitive price, it also is conscientious about the environment. After doing a simple wash, the soap and wax will biodegrade leaving minimal impact on the environment.
This also allows you to wash you PWC on a floating PWC dock and not having to worry about the marine life. While doing a simple wash and wax is the most common way to protect and clean your PWC hull, XPS offers many other products to extended the life of you PWC. Their hull cleaner is great for removing algae and other creature that may have grown on the bottom of your hull. They also offer a fabric waterproofing spray that protects your seat cover from UV rays and deters water from absorbing into the seat.
JetX Powersports is a reputable powersports store located in Ontario, Canada. With Ryan Dalli as the mastermind behind JetX you can be sure that if you tell Ryan you want your PWC to go fast, he will come through. JetX is one of the best places to go in Canada for any tuning or modifications. The reason they are the best is through countless satisfied customers and proven race results.
They only use the industries best brands for parts to ensure their customers that the work they have done is of the upmost quality. So, whether you are in Canada or the United States of America, email, call or visit JetX Powersports for all of your PWC needs. And remember, to make sure your PWC remains looking great on and off the water for years to come, use XPS Cleaning and Care Products.
Cycle Springs Power Sports, located in Clearwater, FL is looking for hard-working motivated people to fill lot positions. Cycle Springs is a family owned franchise and a nice benefit package is offered to employees. Competitive wages, health insurance, and a 401k are some of the perks. Those benefits are hard to come by in today’s job market.
The above incentives are available to those who meet the requirements for employment. If you are motivated, have a clean driving record, able to lift fifty pounds, and can handle working outside year-round, you’re halfway there. If you enjoy powersports, you’ll love Cycle Springs. Stop in and fill out an application. You won’t know unless you go.
Cycle Springs Powersports is also looking for a sales person to join the family. This is an opportunity to join Florida’s most successful and stable team with unlimited possibilities.
Their sales staff is responsible for the complete sales experience. Sales begin with greeting the customer and taking them all the way to delivery. You will be in control of your customers experience at the dealership.
Cycle Springs dealership prides itself on product knowledge and a seamless sales process. Potential applicants should be self-motivated with a base knowledge of the products that the shop sells.
Good communication skills are a must as is finance knowledge, a willingness to work weekends, and a desire to have a career in the powersports industry.
After a year’s employment, you’ll receive medical insurance, 401K, bonuses, and vacation. You will have a lot of fun in a casual work environment. If you accept a sales position with Cycle Springs, plan to attend company parties and events. Please send resume to [email protected] or give them a call at 727.771.1211 and ask for Jimmy Wallace.
The shop is located at 29703 US Highway 19 N. in Clearwater, FL
Every day, people around the world wake up and start brewing a pot of coffee. After drinking their morning coffee and taking a shower, they proceed to put on some clean clothes.
The clothes you choose to wear will make a statement, whether you prefer to wear dressier clothes or overalls as your attire of choice. Whatever you prefer, why not make a statement with a new JetX Powersports T-Shirt.
These t-shirts are hot off the press with a funny comic on the front along with the JetX logo. Sometimes people can get into disagreements with their spouse, so one way to cool off is to hop onto your PWC as depicted in the comic. While we are unable to offer relationship advice here at The Watercraft Journal, we do hope you still find time to get out and ride.
Ryan Dalli is the man behind JetX Powersports. Having started as a Sea-Doo repair man, he was able to get into the world of racing and make his name known.
While Dalli is a great racer, he is known for his ability to fix anything. This is how he was given the nickname; Doctor.
You can get these t-shirts through their Facebook. Don’t wait, these will not last long, so check out this link to place your order now.
Unless you’re living within a temperate climate where a “cold front” means you’ve gotta zip up a hoodie and finally wear socks and shoes instead of flip-flops, chances are that the brisk and often icy conditions of winter are enough for you to pack up your life vest and sunscreen, and winterize your watercraft for the next few months.
One recent cold snap blanketed The Watercraft Journal’s home office in Nashville, Tennessee, surprising us with a few inches of snow overnight. Unfortunately, sheets of freezing rain the night before meant a thick layer of ice lay below that fresh powder, making the roads pretty much too hazardous to traverse.
Above: Back in late November, an unexpected cold snap coated The Watercraft Journal’s Tennessee home office in a thick layer of ice and a bit of powdery snow. We couldn’t pass up the chance to hit the lake since we knew nobody would be as stup…daring as we were!
With nowhere to go, and certain that we’d be the only ones foolish enough to venture out on Old Hickory Lake in sub-freezing temperatures, we decided to take The Watercraft Journal’s long-term test model, a 2019 Sea-Doo Wake Pro 230 out for a spin.
Dusting off our trusty old Jobe dry suit, we donned a head sock, goggles, thick gloves and our best riding boots to bear the brunt of below 20-degree-wind chills. Although we certainly had plenty of fun churning up the completely empty lake, we did note that even our best cold weather riding gear simply wasn’t enough to keep us comfortable against the chill.
Above:Learning from BRP’s Ski-Doo line, Sea-Doo’s new cold weather offerings for chilly PWC enthusiasts include these Heated Hand Grips and Wind Deflectors (which can be installed on all ST3-based Sea-Doo PWC and new GTI-based models); both are available through Sea-Doo Parts & Accessories Catalog. Not shown is the Extension Harness necessary for models equipped with more than one electronic accessory.
Above left: Amazingly, installation of the heated grips is incredibly easy, requiring only minor modification to a couple decorative panels; wiring the grips is literally a plug-and-play affair, with Sea-Doo providing a detailed schematic to follow (please see highlighted hyperlink below). Above right: Tools for installing the deflectors are a 10mm socket, 10mm wrench, dental tool, 3/16-inch drill bit, 1/4-inch drill bit, T20 Torx socket, T25 Torx socket, T30 Torx socket, socket wrench, Phillips head screwdriver and flat head screwdriver.
Thankfully, Sea-Doo has two items – new for 2020 – in its Parts & Accessories catalog that were exactly what we needed to keep our most important extremities warm. No, our hands. The first are Sea-Doo’s adjustable handlebar deflectors, priced at $104.99 (PT# 295100762), followed by Sea-Doo’s heated hand grips, priced at $199.99 (PT# 295100812).
Uniquely designed to fit all makes and models of Sea-Doo watercraft, Sea-Doo’s new hand guard kit borrows heavily from its Ski-Doo and Can-Am line; designed to deflect spray and wind from wetting and chilling your hands as you speed across the water.
Above left: Because installation of the deflectors require some drilling, we tucked a ratty shop towel under the storage lid to catch the metal shavings. Trust us, you’re gonna want to do this. Above center: Use your dental tool to pop out the end cap. Above right: Using the big T35, remove the hex head screw holding the original grips on. Your grips will slide off effortlessly.
With so much of Sea-Doo’s ergonomics dedicated to keeping the rider’s hands planted on the handlebars; all of that goes out the window if your grip is cramping under the cold. Thankfully, installing the deflector kit takes less than 30 minutes with the proper tools, and when following Sea-Doo’s detailed instructions, which we’ve linked here.
Thankfully, the kit also comes complete with all of the hardware to install it, whether you’ve got a top-of-the-line GTX Limited 300, a sporty RXP-X with the X-steering handlebars, or a base-model Spark. So don’t count on having to make a couple trips to the hardware store. It’s all here.
Above left: We’re big believers in adding small-yet-simple extra steps if it means doing a better job. BRP requires that you drill out the hole with a 1/4-inch bit, but the hole is so small that a chance of biting and breaking the bit was enough for us to want to start with a smaller 3/16ths-inch bit. Above center: The smaller diameter bit helps us get the prescribed depth (2 3/16-inch) while opening up the hole a little more. Above right: Now we can hog out the hole for the new Torx screw without the heat and chatter that comes from forcing a bit too large into a tiny hole.
Start by removing the black rubber plug covering the T30 torx screw holding the palm rest grips to the handlebar. With the screw removed, the grip can slide off, revealing the handle bar. Before going any further, we laid down an old shop towel to catch any shavings.
At this point, Sea-Doo instructs to take a 1/4-inch bit and drill 2-and-3/16ths of an inch into the bar, opening up the mounting hole. Since the original hole is so much smaller, we opted to “play it safe” and begin with an intermediary 3/16-inch bit, opening up the hole slightly larger before using the recommended 1/4-inch drill to hog out the hole. This process produces a lot of metal shavings which you really don’t want floating around in your footwells, so make sure to cover up as much of the Sea-Doo as you can before you start drilling.
Top left:With our enlarged hole, we sprayed in a little XPS lubricant and threaded the hole with our deeper Torx screw. Next we reinstalled the palm rest grip with the new black plastic clamp support. Top right: Using the new Torx screw, we tightened down the grip and clamp support. Bottom left: The two-piece clamp at the end of the Deflector is held on by two smaller Torx screws. Bottom right: The clamp’s screws are tightened down to the recommended 35 lbs. in.
Next, we sprayed a little XPS penetrating oil into the handlebars before hand-threading the new plastite Torx screw supplied in the kit. With fresh threads cut into the hole, we slipped our factory hand grips back on, and installed the black plastic clamp support with the Torx screw to the recommended 35 lbs. in.
Finishing the deflector installation, the angled arm slips into the shield, and is tightened together with the supplied Torx screw, and a T25 Torx socket. Attaching the clamp to the support is as simple as tightening the cap down using the supplied Torx truss screws and a T20 Torx socket.
Above: Since we were going to be installing heated grips, we reversed our steps and removed the hand deflectors. Obviously, we’ll be repeating the installation steps when the new heated grips are installed (that is, besides needing to drill anything out). Then we removed the seats.
Wait to tighten down the truss screws all the way after verifying that the shields won’t make contact with the fairings when turning the handlebars to their stops. Once they’re set to your liking, go ahead and tighten down the clamps to 22 lbs. in. Since we had the heated hand grips left to install, we removed the shields, clamp support and factory hand grips and began our next step.
When dealing with anything electrical on your Sea-Doo, always start by removing the seats and disconnecting the battery, with the negative terminal first and then the positive – as per BRP’s detailed instructions found online here.
Above left: As is with working on anything electrical on your Sea-Doo, begin by disconnecting the battery; negative terminal first and then positive.Above right: Removing the front cover is necessary, so unscrew the two 8mm screws found inside of the storage compartment. The front cover slides out forward.
Next, we opened the center storage lid and removed the 8mm screws fastening down the front cover. The front cover slips forward, revealing the wiring harness for the handlebars, gauge cluster, and if equipped like our Wake Pro 230, the accessory harness for the BRP Premium Sound System and USB charger.
Since our grips were already removed, we went ahead and removed the handlebar pad. It comes out easily by simply pulling down to release two bottom tabs, and then pushing up, freeing it from the handlebar. With the pad off, two 10mm screws holding down the left and right iControl covers are revealed. With the screws removed, the covers come out pretty effortlessly.
Above left: The soft handlebar pad is easily removed by pulling down to unhook the two plastic prongs (illustrated) and then pushing upwards. Above right: The two accessory (or iControl) covers are held down by two hex screws.
Above: The two hex screws hold down the accessory control (or iControl) covers. With them removed, the covers come off with a little bit of pressure. No tools are necessary.
The steering neck is shrouded in a two-piece clamshell-like cover, held together by 8 retaining tabs. These need to be unsnapped using a small flat screwdriver or similar tool. A longer screwdriver is best used to unsnap the two tabs on the underside of the cover. Finally, use a dental tool or jeweler’s screwdriver to pop the key connectors at the front of the cover. This will free the top cover to be removed.
Now we could install our new Heated Hand Grips, following the steps from before, installing them with the new clamp supports for the deflectors, and torquing them down at the required pounds-per-square-inch.
Above left: The steps we were most concerned about were properly removing the clam shell-like cover over the steering neck. A long flathead screwdriver is needed to reach two of the snaps on the underside of the cover. A dental tool or jewelers screwdriver is ideal for dislodging the final two front tangs. Above right: This shows you were all of the tangs are located from the inside of the cover. Be very careful not to break these off or bend them too far, or your cover won’t reinstall back as nice as it did.
Above left: With the covers all removed, you can see how the handlebar is arranged and the accessory (iControl) controls are laid out. Above right: We can now install our heated grips, carefully threading their wiring harness between the existing wires, and feed it through the open portal in the steering neck. It’s tight but doable with a little bit of patience.
Next, we had to feed each grip’s wiring connector through the open portal in the steering neck. It’s tight, but won’t require any tricks to feed them through one-at-a-time. Because access to the wiring harness can get tight, we also took the extra step of removing the gloss black hood cover. The cover’s held on by two Torx screws and makes routing the wiring a lot easier. It’s not in Sea-Doo’s instructions, meaning it’s not mandatory, but the 30-seconds it takes to remove it was well worth it.
We laid out the harness for our heated hand grips loosely, carefully mapping where we wanted to route our wiring, connectors and fuse so they wouldn’t interfere with the steering controls or other accessories.
Above: Although not outlined in the instructions, we also removed the decorative panel (or cover) exposing the entire wiring harness that passes through the steering neck. It’s not entirely necessary, but this simple step made feeding the harness for the heated grips immensely easier that we really recommend it – it’s only two screws!
Above: BRP doesn’t outline a specific route for the heated grip harness, so basically do your best to route it in such a way that it won’t interfere with other wiring or the hinge mechanism. We ran ours alongside the USB phone charger harness we had installed earlier in the season and eventually, zip tied the two together.
Speaking of which, since our Sea-Doo already had its accessory port occupied by the USB charger and BRP Premium Sound System, we had to order the supplementary Extension Harness (PT# 278003684) to allow us to use all 3 accessories simultaneously. The Extension Harness interrupts the harness for the other accessories to provide a secondary terminal where we can plug our heated hand grips into.
Each plug consists of a male and female end, the latter having a molded-in slide that clicks into one of the many pronged perches found under the front cover. We routed our heated grips’ harness to the driver’s side, mounting the fuse block down with an existing bolt, and snapped the female plug near it. Connecting the Extension Harness was as easy as one-two-three, and we were back in business.
Above: Because our Wake Pro 230 came to us equipped with the BRP Premium Sound System, there wasn’t an open accessory port available. When we installed the USB charger port a few months ago, that accessory has it’s own splice with a secondary female accessory port, allowing us to run both the sound system and USB. This means we needed to order the Extension Harness that interrupts the second accessory harness, giving us a third socket to plug our heated grips into. We mounted it and its standalone fuse block to an existing perch (illustrated at top of images).
Above: We’re pretty meticulous about our zip tie work. When you trim the excess (slack) off, make sure you cut it all the way down to the nub so you don’t have any sharp edges to surprise you on a later day. We snugged down our new accessory harness so nothing would flop around or chatter inside.
With our wiring laid out loosely across the substructure, we began zip tying down our harnesses, carefully trimming off the excess slack off down to the nub (nobody likes sharp zip tie ends). Then, we needed to retrace our steps by reinstalling the steering neck cover and hood cover. Yet, before we could finish up, Sea-Doo requires that you drill out two small reliefs in your accessory covers to let the loom for the heated hand grips to pass through.
Although we used a pneumatic grinder instead of the suggested 13/64ths-inch drill bit, the result was the same. With these properly notched, both covers were installed, as was the handlebar pad, front cover and the hand shields over the heated grips. Finally, the rubber end caps and battery terminals were reinstalled so we could review our work. With the lanyard in and the start button bumped, our USB plug began charging our phone while the BRP Premium Sound System chirped to life. Success!
Above left: Before final reassembly, Sea-Doo requires that the accessory control (iControl) panels are relieved to let the wiring harness of the heated grip pass through. Official instructions suggest using a 13/64-inch drill bit, but we had our pneumatic grinder handy and allowed us to chamfer the edges a little better. Above right: With the control panels reinstalled, you can see how the heated grips’ harness slips through our beveling.
Above: The heated grips need to have the engine running in order to work. Yes, the LED will light up (illustrated) to tell you that it’s getting power, but you won’t feel anything until the engine is idling – allowing you to toggle through the 5 different heat levels.
Understand that the heated grips require the engine to be running to operate. Simply press and hold the button on the left hand side grip for 3 seconds to turn them on. The heated grips feature 5 heat levels, with the LED light indicating which level you’re set to; Blue being Level 1 (20% operation), Green Level 2 (40%), Yellow Level 3 (60%), Orange Level 4 (80%) and Red being Level 5 (100%). And pressing and holding the button for 3 seconds will turn the heated grips off, regardless of the level.
With our Wake Pro 230 fully outfitted with the new hand shield deflectors and heated grips, we thought it best to put them to the test by joining the Middle Tennessee Personal Watercraft Club’s New Year’s Day winter ride. Although the club was set to meet at 9am sharp at Flipper’s Bait & Tackle in Galatin, Tennessee; we decided to set in at home and ride the extra miles through Old Hickory Lake until reaching the rendezvous point up the Cumberland River.
Above: Not wanting to waste a golden opportunity to test our newest add-ons, we joined the Middle Tennessee Personal Watercraft Club for their New Years Day ride. We totaled a brief 55-miles, but added a few dozen extra getting to the meet-up point by water.
From there, we joined up and headed east, winding up the river that brought French fur trappers and early American frontiersmen to the wooded West, long before the American Revolution had begun. These pioneers and mountain men used many of the caves that pockmarked the limestone cliffs as camps between trapping beaver pelts and trading with native tribes.
About twenty miles east, we veered south into Spring Creek, aptly named for a narrow creek fed by a natural spring. We followed the winding path all the way to Coles Ferry Pike, a narrow bridge marking the end of the line (that is, before bottoming out).
Above: Reacting Spring Creek was well worth the winding journey. Although any threat of snow was absent, freezing temperatures were definitely on the docket today. It’s funny how the color of the Cumberland River changes depending on the temperature. This milky green is common when the mercury sinks below 40 degrees.
From there, we wound back up into the main river and continued east a little further before nearing Hartsville. Riding alongside the northern face, we discovered a narrow pocket in the cliffs hiding a secret waterfall. Recent rainfall accounted for the cascade, and each of the group took a minute to idle into the cove and check it out up close.
From there, we ventured just a little further until reaching the Highway 231 bridge, where the Linq fuel caddy was emptied into the Sea-Doo’s tank and grabbed a quick snack before we all doubled back toward the launch at Flippers.
Above: The penultimate stop of the day was at a hidden waterfall tucked behind an outcropping of limestone. We all slipped in and checked out the cascades before resuming our trek East.
Above: Without a doubt, the heated grips and deflectors (hand guards) made a huge difference. We really didn’t consider how important warm hands can be to enjoying your winter ride! Again, these new heated grips can fit any iControl-equipped Sea-Doo runabout that came with factory palm grips. The only gripe we could think of was the guards’ almost persistent blocking off our rearview mirrors. Comfort comes at a cost, they say!
While outside temperatures hovered in the high 40’s, windchill was still a factor, and without the heated grips and hand shields, we’d be in a bad way. At the beginning of the ride, we toggled the grip’s setting to Red, the highest option. That quickly proved uncomfortably hot even after a minute, so we toggled back down to Yellow, the middle setting – and there they stayed the rest of the day. Typically, extreme cold gets our hands and feet hurting pretty quickly. Not so anymore with these new accessories from Sea-Doo. Now it looks like all we need are a good set of cold weather boots!
A fun video from Jet Ski Camping provides five useful tips that will help make riding your jet ski more efficient. It begins with a simple tweak of the front compartment on your PWC. Sometimes when bouncing around in the chop, water will make its way into the compartment, causing some of your stuff to get wet. The jet ski’s front box isn’t fitted all the around the top with watertight tape and that can pose a problem. The solution is to pull the plastic bin out and place hatch seal tape completely around the top of the box. Weather seal tape will also work. Problem solved.
The next dilemma is lack of room in that same forward storage compartment. When going offshore, it’s a good idea to carry flares and other safety equipment. Flares generally come in a large container, which takes up most of the storage space. Jet Ski Camping suggests placing the flares in a plastic pasta container and other safety gear will fit as well. This is a great space saving idea.
Another cool hack that many of us have used in other outdoor activities is using a hydration bladder. They’re great for backpacking, biking, and pretty much any other activity. Now some life jackets have a built-in port for a hydration bladder, creating a hands-free drinking experience enabling riders to maintain control of their skis.
The forgotten drain plug is another issue and is a quick way to sink a ski. An easy tip for remembering to install the drain plug in your watercraft is to place a sticker near the safety chain on the watercraft trailer. Just remember why the sticker is there and you’ll be golden.
The final hack calls for using liquid dish soap when flushing the PWC. Pour some dish soap into the garden hose before flushing the jet ski and the soap will break down any salt. Run the ski until the bubbles stop and you’re finished. These five simple hacks are so easy that anyone can incorporate them into their routine. Happy riding!
Cycle Springs Powersports is also looking for a 
Every day, people around the world wake up and start brewing a pot of coffee. After drinking their morning coffee and taking a shower, they proceed to put on some clean clothes.
