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PWC Muscle’s Winter and De-Winterizing Tips

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While there’s a great deal of detail that could be poured into every step of the tips listed below, we want to share one of the most bare-bones, comprehensive check lists necessary to not only prepare your personal watercraft for a long winter’s nap, but also to properly wake it from hibernation, all courtesy of the crew at PWC Muscle (and its sister site, www.seadooforum.com). Again, it’s lengthy but worth the review:


 

Winterizing:
Winterizing your boat for the majority of us is the most dreaded day of the year. Warm weather is gone and so starts the wait for spring temperatures so we can hit the water again next season. Take these protective measures to assure your boat will greet you with a happy face when warm weather welcomes you again in a few months.

Standard Winterization
1) Run a fogging solution through the boat engine while it is running to protect internal parts
2) Spray a protective anti-corrosion film on the external parts of engine
3) Drain the engine block and manifolds and fill the engine with anti-freeze
4) Drain the lower unit gear oil and refill with fresh oil (stern drives only)
5) Grease all external fillings on stern drives
6) Disconnect the battery/batteries and store somewhere warm
7) Cover your boat

Optional Winterization
1) Remove spark plugs and spray oil on cylinders, then replace spark plugs
2) Change engine oil and filter
3) Remove prop and grease prop shaft
4) Add fuel stabilizer to prevent condensation in gas tank (run engine briefly to flush stabilized gas through fuel injectors and carburetor)
5) Winterize fresh water system
6) Remove outdrive and grease U-Joint

De-Winterizing
Prepare Your Vessel for the Spring and Summer
So, you have got that itching spring fever to uncover the boat and get her wet for the first time this season. There is nothing worse than being gathered at the dock with a boat-load of people and you turn the key and…rrr..rrr..rrr…and nothing. It is likely this will happen if you do not take the time to de-winterize your boat. Do an inspection before setting out on the first trip of the season. To avoid any embarrassment and frustration, use the following pre-launch checklist to get your boat as ready for the boating season as you are.

Oil Check
If you did not change the engine oil when you put the boat up for the season, now is the time to do it. Make sure you change the oil filter also. Check the oil in the outdrive.

Battery Inspection
1) Reattach the cables.
2) Make sure the terminals are not corroded. If so, wipe them clean. If your battery takes water, fill it up. A dry battery is a bad battery. (I learned that the hard way.) With a battery tester, check the volts and amps. Does it have juice? If it is charged and still no luck, it may be time to buy a new battery.

Cooling System
Hopefully you drained the cooling system if you live in a cold winter climate to prevent freezing. If so, fill ‘er back up. Rinse out the strainer and check the hoses for cracks.

Fuel System
You also should have topped off the tank with gas to prevent any moisture and condensation forming in the tank and diluting the gas. Change the fuel filter. Make sure the fuel line is attached and not cracked. In the winter these hoses can become dry and brittle.

Distributor
Take the distributor cap off and clean it out. Corrosion could have occurred during the winter. Make sure all connections are restored.

Belts
Tighten the belts if needed. You should only be able to push the belt slightly down. If the belts do not fit snugly in their pulley grooves, they may be worn and in need of replacement. Belts that are not tight will wear faster because they will likely begin to slip. The alternator belt usually wears faster than the others. A sign of a worn belt is black soot somewhere in the vicinity of the pulley.

Other Things That Should Not Be Ignored:
Change the spark plugs
Lubricate the engine with WD-40
Check all hoses
Check power steering/cables
Test the bilge pump
Replace the drain plug
Check rudder and shafts
Inspect the prop
Test the horn
Test the VHF radio
Check the trim
Inspect personal flotation devices
Check the fire extinguisher expiration date
Make sure the anchor in on board

* The above de-winterizing tips are only a list of suggested things to do your boat that I’ve collected over the years. Each boat may vary as to what needs to be done to de-winterize it. For complete instructions please see your boat’s owners manual or consult your boat mechanic.

Video: Introducing The x2 Sport Underwater Jet Pack

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We’ve been showing you some pretty oddball stuff lately, but we’re actually really liking the idea of the x2 Sport Underwater Jet Pack. Somewhere between Sea-Doo’s Dolphin Sea Scooter and the JetLev, the x2 Sport is the ideal snorkeling toy. Basically, a wearable propulsion system, the x2 Sport is propelled by the patented wrist-mounted “Hydra thrusters” that are mounted to a pair of soft silicone mounting cuff. The two thrusters are controlled via an analogue trigger integrated into the throttle grip and powered by batteries tucked into a backpack.

Designed as a supplement to underwater divers, swimmers and snorkelers, the “x2 provides the effort, saving your precious oxygen allowing longer duration dives.” Additionally, the x2 “opens up a whole new experience in underwater acrobatics by allowing you to twist, turn and spin. You’re only limited by your imagination and the best part is that your hands will be free enabling you to stop to take photos,” according to the IndieGoGo campaign page. Thus far, they have raised over $12,000 of their $35,000 goal, which is pretty good – but it could be much better.

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We really like the idea of this entrepreneurial device and think it could be a big help to recreational scuba divers and possibly even be adapted for military applications. Although you won’t boil the water at 6mph, the x2 Sport does add to the normal human’s normally-slow speed significantly. Watch the video below and see it in action. We think you’ll like the x2 as much as we do, and maybe enough to donate!

5 Critical Steps to Take When Buying a Used PWC

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The Worldwide Stolen PWC Database has helped us put together a list of steps to take and things to check for when buying a used PWC. The last thing you want when buying a used ski is to purchase a stolen one. We have a list of precautions and procedures to check for when buying to make sure that does not happen:

Check the HIN Every watercraft comes from the factory with a HIN (Hull Identification Number). This number is unique to each ski. When purchasing a used watercraft, it is a good idea to look for evidence of tampering, as this may mean the PWC you’re looking into has been stolen. Look for signs of scratches as well as any oddities in the number itself. For example, the year of the ski is normally the last two numbers in the HIN. If you know the ski you’re looking at is a 2010, but the last two numbers of the HIN are 12, then you should probably steer clear of this PWC and the seller.

Get to Know the Seller It would also be a good idea to get to know the seller as much as possible. A visit to his/her house to look at the ski is generally a good way. While it may be tempting to simply ask to meet on the water so you can go for a test ride, it would be best to go visit the seller’s address, then ask if you could go to the water to test it.

Use an Independent HIN Checking Service There are several sites that hold marine watercraft history and reports that contain information about many different types of marine vessels. From our experience, though, this information varies substantially from site to site. It would be a good idea to make sure you are using a reputable source for your info, such as the Worldwide Stolen PWC Database. They work with many different agencies to gather up the most accurate information they can provide you with.

Commit with a Written Agreement If all the prior check out and you’re ready to make a purchase, then try to get a simple contract for the both of you to sign, just to show the agreement of sale. It does not need to be a 20 page document full of legal terms, just a simple contract stating the facts of the sale (where you both live, what is being sold, the seller is the rightful owner, etc.).

With this signed by both of you, you will have a formal agreement between you and the seller as well as an extra layer of protection for yourself. Don’t forget, verify the seller’s identity by means of an ID, driver’s license, passport, etc.

Use Common Sense While the Worldwide Stolen PWC Database is able to quickly and accurately inform you if the PWC you’re looking to purchase is registered on their database, it should only be used as another tool in your buying arsenal. Remember, unfortunately not everyone reports it to them right away when their PWC has been stolen, so we can’t pass on the warning. If the deal you’re being offered is too good to be true, it probably is.

Check if the service/repair work looks legitimate. If possible, contact the dealer who serviced it to confirm the work.

Keep in mind, sellers will expect you to be a bit skeptical when making a high value purchase. A legitimate seller will be much more comfortable answering any questions you have than somebody who has something to hide.

Yamahas Win AquaX Championship Titles

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Throughout the 2015 racing season, the Yamaha brand really put on a show, taking numerous national and world titles in several different sanctioning bodies. You might could even say the 2015 PWC racing season was all but completely dominated by Yamaha WaveRunners. And the AquaX racing series was no different.

In the premier 300 class, Yamaha racer Mike Klippenstein showed true dedication to the sport, coming all the way from Canada to make all six AquaX rounds in FL. After a very strong season of racing, he finished the season with an astounding 56 point lead over the runner up, Eric Francis.

Though the 250 class was won by a Sea-Doo rider Eric Lagopoulos, Yamaha riders Paloma Noceda and Brian Baldwin were nipping on his heels all season. In fact, Noceda had the points lead going into the last round. She fell off her ski in the last moto of the season, though, and gave Lagopoulos the championship by two points. Never the less, Yamaha is proud of the way their riders and machines performed.

The 200 class was mostly Yamaha VXRs. In fact, all but four of the skis in the 200 class were VXRs. Travis Zielasko took the championship with a whopping 61 point lead over fellow Yamaha rider, Rob Greenwald, who took second place on the season. Also, we must mention, the Rookie Cup winner for the year was Hector Toledo, who was racing Yamaha FZR in the 300 class.

Don’t Miss Your Chance at The IJSBA Jetraid 2015 World Championship

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Hey! Are you unwilling to call it quits for 2015? Well, then if you’ve got a few thousand dollars lying around (or some serious frequent flyer miles you can cash in), then might we suggest crating up your favorite watercraft and hoping a flight to the World Jet Raid Championship in Peru this upcoming November 14th through the 21th. If you were on hand for the 2015 quakysense IJSBA World Finals, then you might’ve heard all of the announcements about this race, otherwise here’s the skinny:

According the IJSBA’s own website: “Jet Raid comes to Peru to joint one of the many high profile Endurance Races that are developing in 2015. Jet Raid is a mix of endurance and closed course over several days.” As of the announcement, more than 15 countries have already confirmed, with racers from Europe, North America and Asia coming to compete for the 8 days of racing. (and over 1000 kms of travel along the coast of Perou, starting in a desert Dakarian camp in Ancash.

Although the €1,000 ($1075 USD) entry fee for racers sounds steep, it does include your hotel, meals and transportation to and from the race site. Flights thought do add up, with the race being so close (upwards to $1,200), and don’t forget the cost of shipping your ski, tow vehicle and tools! Crew members’ entry is slightly less at €750 ($805 USD). Again, racing ain’t cheap and comes at a great personal expense to the racer, their crew and sponsors, so that’s why we ALWAYS want to support the few promoters who actually offer cash purses!

Gallery: Blacktip Jetsports Has You Covered (Well, Your Seat, Anyways)

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Like other enthusiasts, we love our personal watercraft and would do about anything for them! Well, maybe that’s a little much for some of you, but keeping your ski in good condition with a bit of personalization is imperative.

That’s where Watercraft Superstore’s line of Blacktip Jetsports replacement seat covers come in. There is no better way to make your baby look new again, or add that customized look, than with a new seat cover to cover where you sit.

Yes we know… the elephant in the room; “How do I put the new seat cover on” you ask? We at The Watercraft Journal are here to help! We recently made a trip to Watercraft Superstore headquarters to shadowed Blacktip’s expert installer who walked us through a few tricks to use during this process. These details will help make you look like a pro when finished!

Above: A few basic tools of the trade will make your life easier while recover that old seat: a long straight blade screwdriver, a pair of needle nose pliers and/or a staple puller, a staple gun, staples (preferably stainless steel), a razor blade, scissors and to make things really easy on yourself, a heat gun.

Above left: First you need to remove that old, faded, worn out seat cover by flipping the seat upside down, wedging the screwdriver between your old seat cover and the seat base and rip up and away! Above center: Continue around the entire edge of the seat base until the cover is completely torn free. Flip the seat back over and remove the old cover.

Above left: Your new Blacktip cover will arrive from the Watercraft Superstore folded up in a bag. Rip open the bag like Santa just came down the chimney and drape the new seat cover over your old seat foam and base. Carefully align the cover in the basic position it is going wind up. Make sure that it is both centered from side to side and front to back, and that the seams and contours line up correctly with your old seat. Above right: This is where the heat gun comes in handy. While the new cover is draped over the top of your formerly naked seat, apply a little heat to make it more pliable. Work out the kinks in the cover left from it being folded up in a bag by pulling down on the edges and smoothing over the surface with your hand. Many modern watercraft seats have dramatic contours and bolsters molded into the seat foam. There are two important steps that need to be noted here for these types of designs.

Above left: Turn the seat upside down once again, and with the needle nose pliers or staple puller remove all the remaining staples from your ski’s plastic seat base. Above center: There will usually be a plastic tab sewn into your seat cover that you removed in step one. It is used to keep the cover taut around the bolster. Above right: You will need to feed the tab back through the slot in the foam bolster.

Above left: Many of the Blacktip Jetsports seat covers come with a velcro strip sewn in the seams that needs to be applied to your seats foam base. Similar to the plastic tab, the velcro helps to keep the cover in place and tight to the foam for a “factory look” once you’ve finished the install. Above right: Stretch the cover over the seat (not so gently) pulling it down by the edges. Start tucking and aligning the seams into the contours of the foam and around the edges of the seat base. Continue this process until it is aligned properly and lying flat on the foam. (Note, this process of aligning and stretching your seat cover is continuous as you proceed through the following steps: align, stretch, staple and repeat!)

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Above: Start by aligning the two front corners of the new cover with the seat. 

Above left: Next align the seams from the front to the back of the cover making sure they line up with the edges of the foam and seat base. Above center: Staple the cover a couple times on each corner to hold the cover in place. Above right: Spin the seat around, align the back center of the cover (marked by the customary Blacktip emblem) with the center of the seat base.

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Above: Stretch the seams to the appropriate edges of the foam and base, and put a couple staples through the cover into the base. Turn your seat to the side and upside down. Again, repeat the process of lining up the seams and stretching the cover to match the edges of the foam and base. Staple it! Turn the seat to the other side and repeat this process.

Repeat the above steps of aligning, stretching and adding staples to your new cover while making sure everything is lined up properly with the edges of the base and contours in the foam.

If your seat has rounded corners, the cover’s corners are usually sewn together when it arrives from Watercraft Superstore. All you do is slip the cover over the base and stretch it tight. However, if your seat has sharp corners (usually the second seat where the passenger rides) the cover’s corners will most likely NOT be sewn together when it arrives on your doorstep.

Pay close attention to the top of the seat while stapling both sides of the cover to the base. Make sure the new cover is pulled tight enough so that it lies flat on the foam and also remains aligned evenly from side to side. You do not to flip your seat over and see a “bubble” in the cover from it being installed loose, or have a seam halfway up one side of your new seat!

Above left: Fold the corners of the cover together with the bottom portion of the cover under the top, and the top portion overlapping the bottom approximately a half an inch. Above center: Pinch the excess seat cover material together with your fingers and carefully trim it with the scissors. Above right: After trimming the excess material away, staple the cover again on the corners with the top portion of the cover overlapping the bottom.

Above: When there are big curves in the seat design (usually found on modern watercraft) you will want to make small cuts where the cover is “bunching up” to help it lie flat during alignment and installation. Again, the heat gun is your friend! Apply some heat, stretch the cover over the curved area lining up the edges and seams, and make small cuts where it is bunching up. *Note: make sure the cuts do not extend into where you are stapling the cover to the base.

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Above: When stapling over seems there is a specific technique used to help strengthen and minimize “pulling” where the cover is sewn together. By applying one staple directly over the seam, and one on each side of the seam (1+1+1=3 total staples) you will help your new Blacktip cover withstand your abuse!

Above: Now you have your new cover aligned, stretched and securely stapled in place! Add staples, and add more staples about a finger width apart all the way around the edge of the seat base.

Above: Finally, we’ve made it! Trim off the remaining excess cover material along the line of staples.

Above: The only thing left now is to put that fresh, custom looking Blacktip seat courtesy of Watercraft Superstore, back on your beloved ski and go rip around your local waterways annoying more boaters! Smile and enjoy! You know the saying “Money can’t buy you happiness, but it can buy you a jet ski! Have you ever seen anyone sad on a jet ski?”

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Case of The Mondays: Could This Floating City be The Modern Atlantis? (Video)

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Tech Insider posted a cool video of the floating city that French Architecht, Jaques Rogerie designed in the shape of a Manta Ray. He named it the City of Meriens, which translates to “City of Oceanites”. It was engineered for marine research and designed with an oceanic university city in mind. The structure measures 3,000 feet long, 1,650 feet wide, and is capable of housing 7,000 researchers, professors, and students. The floating city is completely sustainable, operating on renewable marine energy, with zero waste. The upper deck is lined with wind turbines.

The university on water is equipped with living quarters, classrooms, marine labs, and areas to relax. A lagoon in the shape of a manta ray’s tail was installed on the back of the Meriens to hold the Sea Orbiter, an underwater mobile research vessel that Rogerie put more than 30 years into designing. It is capable of housing a crew of 22 and will allow 24/7 observations of marine life. The underwater vessel serves as a laboratory, home, space simulator, multi media platform, and an all around underwater base for gathering important marine data.

According to Fondation Jaques Rougerie, Jacques Rougerie has successfully melded his two passions, the sea and architecture. His research and the structures he builds are based on a bionic architecture inspired by marine forms and a concern for sustainable development. He has built underwater habitats, laboratories, marine research centers, vessels with see-through hulls, sub-aquatic museums, and designed underwater villages, and structures to focus on the beauty and fragility of the sea and its major role in society.

Rougerie, inspired by the imaginary work of Jules Verne, adopted his motto: “Anything one man can imagine, other men can make real”.

Gratuitous Power Guaranteed: Jetski World Introduces Two Special-Edition Kawasakis

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“Y’know its all BNG for next year,” Jetski World’s John Moyle yelled, although I was seated only a few feet away. Moyle needed to raise his voice over the din of the pits at the 2015 quakysense IJSBA World Finals, and “BNG” being a common industry acronym for “Bold New Graphics,” indicating only the slightest of changes from one model year to the next. Moyle’s eyes flickered from behind his wire-rimmed glasses, “Since Kawasaki decided not to do anything for 2016, I thought we should.”

Moyle is the patriarch of Jetski World, one of Australia’s most well-established authorized Kawasaki JetSki dealers. Over the decades, Jetski World has grown far beyond that of a traditional dealership, expanding to include an advanced machine shop where they develop and test their own performance products, an R&D team that extensively tests various configurations of proprietary and competitor’s products, and becoming Australia’s only licensed SBT dealer servicing the entire continent exclusively.

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Although Sea-Doo’s announcement of its new 300-horsepower models permitted Kawasaki its unchallenged position of “King of Horsepower,” Moyle knew that it wouldn’t be long before BRP’s new ACE 300 would come a-challenging. Because Kawasaki’s 2016’s lineup revealed only cosmetic changes, Moyle felt a looming threat from Sea-Doo and took action to personally extend the brand’s grasp on the crown – even as Kawasaki refocuses its efforts towards a new entry-level runabout to challenge the BRP’s Spark in 2017 – by developing and offering two very attractive limited edition Ultra JetSkis.

Working frantically throughout the past several months, Jetski World developed (completely in house, mind you, by their own performance team), two special edition Ultras for 2016: the 340RE and 320LE. The two both offer increased overall horsepower, improved acceleration, rider input and ergonomic comfort. Equally, both craft are sold exclusively with paint-matched ODI grips, hand-stitched Jettrim custom seat covers, and new vinyl graphics made to look like OE decals (printed in house).

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Yet, most impressive of all is that both of these machines will come with a special 3-year warranty guaranteed through Jetski World themselves. Moyle beamed, “Each is backed with a 3-year warranty fully covered by Jetski World and is identical in coverage as the factory warranty.” To claim performance is one thing, to back it up with GPS and radar results is another, but to guarantee it with a personally-backed warranty to to show complete confidence in one’s product, and that is exactly what Jetski World is doing here.

Moyle introduced us to the 320LE, or “Limited Edition,” saying, “It’s is based on the new Ultra 310x. The ECU is our Stage 1 unit reprogrammed by us for the best performance/reliability package for recreational riding in all conditions. The water flow to the intercooler has been redesigned, and the jet pump has been trued and realigned for optimum water flow and reduced drag. All of this results in increased performance through the whole rpm range and a top speed of 72mph.” All of which adds up to $23,000 USD asking price.

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For the top-of-the-line performance enthusiasts, the 340RE (the “RE” standing for “Race Edition”) pushed the envelope even further with a ferocious combination of many of the above listed items and a few proprietary modifications special to Jetski World. Moyles explained, “The Ultra 310R was developed over 8 months of testing and 1000kms of racing the Australian tour resulting in a powerhouse product capable of awesome acceleration and a top speed of 76mph.”

He continued, “The ECU is our race ready Stage 2 unit coupled with our revolutionary new air intake system (design registered for protection). The supercharger has been upgraded to deliver the factory boost of 17psi, [according to Moyles, production models only make 14psi, although Kawasaki advertises a factory maximum of 16.8psi – Ed.]. The exhaust gaskets are replaced with our special self-sealing parts to eliminate water leaks (a common problem), the jet pump is modified to straighten the water flow and reduce drag, with a repitched Solas impeller, as well as the intercooler water flow is improved.”

It took comes with color-matched ODI grips, new vinyl graphics specific to the 340RE and of course, a 3-year warranty fully backed and covered by Jetski World identically matching the same coverage as the factory warranty. Priced at $25,000, the 340RE is a highly competitive craft, worthy of offshore/endurance races straight from the showroom floor (if the factory 310R wasn’t already race-ready enough). Although the changes aren’t overtly radical – at least at the onset – they are palatable.

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It used to be that for an Ultra to reach 76 miles per hour, a completely new power-adder system (most commonly a turbo kit) needed to replace the Eaton roots-style blower, not to mention an aftermarket intercooler and even modifications to the engine internals. Jetski World has managed to achieve this feat without pulling the valve cover. Moyles is currently considering selling the individual components from the 320LE and 340RE as performance packages for those overseas, but understandably, without the 3-year warranty.

Already, speculation is swirling that depending upon the public reaction to Jetski World‘s special edition skis that Kawasaki might consider pushing the 310 just a tad further, maybe say…330? If only just to raise the bar all the more out of Sea-Doo’s reach. The ACE 300 is handily capable of 310, 315 or even 330HP, so we might be standing at the cusp of a new horsepower war.

All images by Daniel Durkin Images

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Video: 701 Industries’ Insane Durability Tests For Its Steering Nozzles

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Listen, we’ve all seen our fair share of late night infomercials shilling “indestructible” items – but we think we’ve actually seen something that is, for all intents and purposes, idiot-proof. Following a video posted on 701 Industries’ Facebook page, we dug a little deeper and were completely impressed with the company’s proprietary Duro Trim Nozzle.

Made specifically for freeriders, the Duro Nozzle is formed from a flexible urethane that is rigid during use, but able to flex under stress and absorb seemingly endless blunt force impact – particularly from hitting the seafloor upon reentry – protecting other pump parts from impact and keeping them from failing. Priced at $89.00 (AUD) the nozzles are in high demand and a waiting list continues to compile.

But that’s what is expected from a company producing top quality products for Yamaha WaveBlasters, SuperJets and a wide variety of aftermarket hull manufacturers. 701 Industries was founded by Dave Dale in 2013 to service an industry where aftermarket parts were “drying up,” by designing and crafting innovative parts for jet skis.

The video you see below is possibly one of the most over-the-top, insane durability tests, ranging from direct hits from hammers, rocks, stomping and even a small panel truck. Oh yeah, and make sure you see how the Duro Trim Nozzle fares when crushed in a hydraulic press. IF that doesn’t convince you, nothing will.

Video: MX100 Factory’s Successful Spark Backflip Wows

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Earlier this year, The Watercraft Journal was the first to publish what later would be a viral sequence of IFWA World Champion (and occasional WCJ contributor) Mark Gomez barrel-rolling a specialized Sea-Doo Spark from WORX Racing. The sequence was captured during a session held shortly after the year’s first round of the AJSP OZ Surf Slam. Although Gomez stuck the landing on the barrel roll, the part-time stuntman and full-time freerider failed to land the multiple backflip attempts before needing to hop a plane back to the States.

This left the virgin territory of successfully executing a backflip on a Sea-Doo Spark wide open. To WORX and Gomez’s credit it took the better part of six months and one of the most decorated freeriders on God’s green earth – Pierre Maixent – to pull it off, and how! Maixent’s company MX100 Factory is a freeride and freestyle shop specializing in building custom skis “on demand” as well as selling of all the “sickest products” in the industry. Likewise, Maixent applies his experience as a 7-time world champion to advise other freeriders.

Recently, MX100 unveiled a new “Spark Division” with the announcement of MX100’s Spark re-mapping services, as well as offering a full array of WORX Racing components specifically for the Spark – all of which add up to an impressive 120-horsepower. The company’s prototype is a handsome Pineapple Yellow 2-up unit wrapped in a custom vinyl kit and touting all the goods necessary to propel Maixent not only through one successful backflip but a recorded two others – including a one-handed flip for good measure.

Below the video published on Antoine Mortoire’s Facebook page was filmed in Montalivet, France only three days ago and has since gone stupidly viral. We only share it here to those who haven’t seen it yet. Enjoy!